This is the set of toggle latch clamps, I purchased off Amazon.com.
One of the greatest tools I have ever purchased. It is meant to be used with an electric drill, but I simply use a 3/8 drive ratchet and socket-to-bit adapter. Using a ratchet, you can go nice and slow, and have complete control. If you have a bunch of riv-nuts to install, you can certainly use your electric drill, but you want to do a couple tests first, and set the clutch on the drill so you do not break the threaded part of the tool, or strip your riv-nuts. Among many of the reasons why I like this tool so much, is because of the fact that you actuate the compression of the tool, by using the ratchet, which you have tons of torque, in that motion. Opposed to the squeezing motion of the typical riv-nut installation tool.l
This is the adapter you need, in order to use a 3/8" drive ratchet, with the above riv-nut tool.
Another invaluable tool that I use for doing work on my Apache. This is a spring-loaded center punch, for making a precise indentation in the aluminum, in order to start your drill hole. There are cheaper versions of these everywhere, but Starrett is top-of-the line tools, and for something that should last a lifetime, I did not hesitate buying, at the price listed.
Installation
Step 1: measure, mark and drill the holes for the upper catch. Just to give you an idea, these holes are below the awning track, and just to the upper left of where the aluminum extrusions extend, to lift the road cover up. I do not think it really matters (within reason) where you put these, as long as you have 2 on each side.
Step 2: Insert and set the riv-nuts. I used MS 304 Stainless Steel 8/32 X 1/2 inch Torx Pan Head screws and 8/32 aluminum riv-nuts, for the 5 points each toggle clamp is secured.
Step 3: After you install the upper catch, let the clamp hang freely, so that you can mark the holes, and drill them out as well. After drilling, insert and set your riv-nuts.
I place a small square of double-sided sticky tape, on the back of the clamp, just to hold it steady, while I mark the mounting holes.
After your riv-nuts are set, I ran a bead of RTV sealant around the screw holes, so that no water can run in to the interior of the camper. A bunch of it will squish out as you tighten it down, so just have a bottle of rubbing alcohol and rag ready for clean-up, before it dries.
Mounted, and locked down. As a side-note, I used some blue threadlocker on all the mounting screws, just to make sure they did not back out. You will want to find something to put through the "lock-tab" in order to make sure the hasp does not flip up and disengage, while in transit. A very simple solution to a common, catastrophic problem with these campers. No straps to fuss with. Using riv-nuts, this allowed me to mount everything without having to use wrenches on the inside, to hold your typical nut, while tightening.
