Old floor removed, without removing the sides, and front/ back of camper. Notice the saw line, approximately in the middle, so that the pieces could be extricated.
The 2 "long" pieces of the flooring. Note the rabet joint cut into the edges.
New floor was done in 3 individual pieces. 3/4" plywood, which was painted on both sides, with exterior paint. This picture shows the rear-most panel in place. Note the 2 additional pieces of steel tubing (spray painted black,) which I welded in place for more floor support.
Looking at the rear section of the camper, with the first floor panel in place.
Note the edge of the first piece of floor. I used a "rabet" bit, for my router, and made this joint, as opposed to just butting the wood pieces up, against each other. The other 2 pieces of flooring, will have the same joint cut into the underside, so when they are fixed in position, the top of the joint is perfectly flush.
2nd section of floor in place. Notice how the sides of the camper move apart enough, to allow floor pieces to slide under lip of the side panels. For the front and back lips of the bezels, I actually had to router off a small amount of wood, for the wood to be able to slide completely under the lips.
3rd piece of the plywood floor, in place. Looking toward the front of the camper.
Floor is now completely secured to the steel frame, using self tappers, similar to the originals.
These are the screws that I chose to use to hold the floor panels down.
Notice the metal plates, at the wheel wells. Unfortunately, I messed up, when measuring, and had to add these aluminum plates, to provide necessary support for the plastic wheel wells.
Roll of vinyl flooring was purchased from one of the local "big box" stores. I did not glue it down, but simply left it "floating." My feeling was that the side wall lips, as well as the lips on the front and rear bezels, would do a completely sufficient job of holding the vinyl down, once all the screws were installed. This is standing at the rear of the camper, looking forward.
