Side Wall Curtains

New Curtain panel for interior. Note the 2 red circles at the top, indicating the attachment point of the curtain rod. The bottom of the curtain is trimmed, and hemmed, with a total height of 40 inches, which allows it to hang with the bottom resting right above the aluminum track that the bed end rollers ride in. If your overall height is any longer, you will pinch the curtain with the back cushion, and possibly pull the curtain down.
These are the curtains I chose. Very reasonably priced, and they have a nice weight to them. Total "black out" from the outside. 2 panels, each 52" wide X 63" long. I use one panel per set of windows. I cut the height at 42 inches, then fold the bottom 2 inches back up, and make a hem, using a "sticky tape." I am not much of a seamstress, so took the easy way out.
Back side of curtain panel. If you look closely, you can see the black line, which is at 38 inches- this is just a reference line, to line the top of the hem up. At 42 inches, I made another line with a Sharpie, and cut the bottom off.
"Sticky tape" placed on curtain, right below the 38 inch mark.
Bottom 2 inches of curtain panel folded up, and the hem is created. One of the reasons I chose these particular curtains, is the the loops at the top, for inserting a curtain rod.
This is the "sticky tape" I chose.

Making the curtain rod

Curtain rod was relatively inexpensive, and much more sturdy than anything you could buy from the store- 1/2 electrical metallic tubing, or EMT. This is found at just about any place that sells electrical stuff. It comes in 10 foot sticks. I cut mine to 58 inches long. The curtain panel is only 52 inches long, but you need the rod longer, as the mounting brackets clip in to the original curtain track.
These are what the curtain rod mounting brackets are made from: You are going to need approximately 18 inches of this DIN rail, but I would buy a couple feet, in case you mess up while cutting it. If you search Amazon or Ebay, there are plenty of sellers of this material. I simply chose this particular listing, because it has a clear picture. It is easy enough to cut with a hacksaw- I used a couple screws and washers, to hold it down to a piece of scrap wood, so that it would not move while I cut it into pieces. If you have a sander, or a file, it is very helpful to smooth out the corners, so that the sharp edges do not cut the curtain fabric.
This part is a little tricky- drilling the holes for the DIN rail. I was fortunate enough to have access to a drill press. I made a small jig out of some scrap wood to hold it in place while drilling, but this is not necessary. The trick is, to lay your cut piece of DIN rail on the EMT, with the outside edge flush with the end of the EMT. Make your marks on the EMT where the screw holes need to be drilled. Then take a center punch, and tap it with a hammer, so you you have a slight indentation for the drill bit to "grab." The drill bit has a tendency to try and "walk" around if you do not use a center punch. After making the indentation with the punch, I then start with a small drill bit, and drill the holes out. I then go up to a little bit larger size, and drill it again. One final drilling, with the actual size that you want to have the hole to be, and you should have successfully drilled a hole straight through the EMT. Even if your holes are not perfectly lined up, on the top and bottom, it will be just fine.
My choice of hardware, was the following: 4 each, 1 inch long stainless steel, 10/32, Phillips head screws. 4 each, 3/4 inch stainless steel fender washers, and 4 each, 10/32 stainless steel locknuts. This is the hardware required to attach the 2 required DIN rail brackets, on each curtain rod.
This is what one side of the completed curtain rod, with mounting bracket, should look like. This is the front, which will be facing you, when inside. Remember to smooth the corners of the DIN rail, because they are very sharp after cutting with a hacksaw.
This is the back side, showing how the DIN rail is attached to the EMT. The oval holes in the DIN plate give you all kinds of room for adjustment. With the 1 inch screws, they are the perfect size and do not push the bracket out, away from the track that it clips into.

Final Thoughts

This curtain project was a culmination of looking at what other owners have done in the past, and combining some of my own ideas. The DIN rail idea was definitely borrowed from someone on one of the Apache camper websites. If anyone knows who originally came up with it, please let me know so I can give proper credit. 

The other issue with my curtains, was I did not want to have to sew, or pay someone to sew anything. It was scouring this great facebook group, that I found people using the sticky tape made specifically for fabrics.

I hope this information helps somebody either by showing exactly what parts and materials were used, and how to put them together, or simply by sparking an idea for another way.