First thing to do, is remove the stock Atwood stabilizers. Once you are done, the only thing on this mounting bracket is an "anchor bolt," which goes up through the floor, and is secured with a washer and nut.
Take both of your statbilizers, and grind off the corner on the appropriate side. You need to remove this material, because of the fact that we are mounting these so that they are at an angle. It will make complete sense, when you hold it up, and swing it towards the frame.
Next step is to remove the "anchor bolt," which goes through the floor. Now, take your stabilizer jack, and hold it up, so that one of the mounting "ears" is lined up with that anchor bolt hole, and reinsert the bolt. You do not need to tighten it back down, but simply run it through, so that it kind of holds that ear in place. At this point, I took a scissor jack I had, and used it to hold the new BAL stabilizer up, while I made some markings. With the anchor bolt holding the one mounting ear, swing the body of the stabilizer over, until it touches the frame, so that it is angled in. Now, mark the location for the hole that the other bolt will go through the second ear. As you can see in the picture above, the second mounting ear on the stabilizer almost catches the existing hole- close, but no cigar!
I ended up using a center punch to make a small indentation in the metal, so that I can start a pilot hole, without the drill bit walking around. Once I got it to the final size, I used a dremel tool, to make the curved section. **A very important step I forgot to mention, was that you need to notch the end of the frame, where the shaft of the stabilizer sticks out, and where you attach the crank. You must do this before you even hold it up to make the mark for drilling. I used a grinder, but be super careful, as it is awkward trying to do, while laying down. Have face and eye protection, along with heavy gloves. I also wore some old coveralls for the sparks. You will see the notch in the following pictures, but if you look in the bottom right corner of this picture, you can kind of see it.
This is a piece of 2 inch by 2 inch square tube, cut to approximately 15 inches long. After the last step of drilling out the second mounting hole for the stabilizer, I tighened up the second bolt, that just goes through the bracket itself (not the anchor bolt,) so that the steel tube can be marked for the rear mounting hole of the stabilizer. Block the stabilizer up, and with the corners ground off, it should rest against the frame of the camper. Mark your hole (yellow circle in picture,) and drill it out.
As a side note, these are my most-used drill bits, when it comes to drilling through metal- step bits. My method is to start with a spring-loaded center punch. This creates the little indentation to start a pilot hole with a small drill bit. I then proceed with a bit that is large enough to create a hole that will allow the tip of the step bit to go in, and begin enlarging the hole in increments, until the desired size is reached. If you have ever experienced trying to drill gradually larger holes through metal, with "regular" drill bits, you will recall that there is always a tendency for the bigger drill bit to grab and jam, while pushing it through. These step bits completely eliminate that problem.
This is my finished installation. Hopefully, this picture will clear up any questions that may have come up, from the previous steps. The 2 inch square tube, pushed tight against the floor and frame rail, creates an almost-level plane, for the stabilizer, once secured. You can also see a better shot of the notch that has to be created for the shaft of the stabilizer to clear.
These are great little stabilizers, and my thanks go out to the people that have installed these on their campers and recommended them. Definitely make sure to get the round "feet," as they are unfortunately sold separately.
